Monday, November 20, 2006

But I Didn't Try The Mussels


No, I didn’t try mussels in Brussels. But I did have a splendid time in the Belgian capital over this past weekend with a couple of guys from the hall. We spent quite a bit of time too with our favourite Canadian Couple, who, by a stroke of coincidence, were in town as well. What did we get up to? Lots of sightseeing, lots of art and architecture and alas, lots of food and beer as well. The last time I was in Brussels was 10 years ago, and memories of those days have since faded. It was high time to renew my acquaintance with this charming city.

Brussels is not a London or a Paris – a mega metropolis packed with marvels aplenty. It doesn’t overwhelm your senses. It’s much more manageable, making it an apt destination for a relaxing weekend. Best to come hungry, too. The old inner core of Brussels can be negotiated entirely by foot, which makes it a perfect way to appreciate the splendid baroque and Art Noveau architecture that the city has in abundance.

We checked out all the standard attractions – the idiosyncratic Manneken Pis, the Church of Notre Dame du Bon Sécours, the Cathedral of St-Michel, the Parc de Bruxelles, and of course, the incomparable Grand Place. Surrounded by grand buildings on three sides and the exquisite Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) on the fourth, this square represents the geographical, historical and commercial heart of the city. It’s pretty amazing. You find yourself standing there, gazing in all directions, upwards and downwards, marvelling at the history of the place, the diversity of people around, and the magnificent facades that surrounds you.

We took some time out as well to check out the Centre Belge de la Bande Desinées, or Belgian Centre for the Comic Strip, located further north in a striking Art Nouveau building. One of the peculiarities of Belgium is that it has a flourishing comic art tradition, with famous characters such as Tintin and the Smurfs. I’m an absolute Tintin fan, and it was good to check out a museum that paid part homage to him and creator Hergé. The gift shop, however, was a disappointment. The Tintin character figures were all priced very high, and I had to make do with a nice soft toy of Snowy, his loyal companion and foil through all his adventures around the world.

So far, I’ve been mentioning most place names in French. However, Brussels is officially a bilingual city, with all signs in French and Flemish. In fact, Belgium is split between the French-speaking Walloons in the south, and the Dutch-speaking Flemish population in the north, who form a slight majority. There is also a much smaller German-speaking minority to the east. Because of these linguistic cleavages, the country has suffered from a lack of a strong national identity. At the same time, as the virtual capital of Europe, with key European Union institutions located in the city, Belgium also places much of its identity within the conception of a greater united Europe.

But that’s all the political commentary I’m going to make. What was particularly fascinating for me, as someone keen on issues of language, was that I found all the street signs in both languages. The Royal Palace is known both as the Palais Royal and the Koninklijk Paleis. The South train station is known both as the Gare du Midi and as Zuidstation. And so on. One language has its roots in Latin, with the other having Germanic origins. Wandering around the city, speaking neither French or Flemish, it was fun at times to try to decipher both languages.

So, after all the walking, where does one go for some good food? A place I would highly recommend is ‘t Kelderke (sic), set quaintly in the 17th century cellar of a building facing the Grand Place. Over an aromatic Leffe beer and a thrilling dish of stoemp – a hearty Belgian dish comprising mash potatoes with your selection of meat and cuts - you begin to wonder why the quality of food in London couldn’t be better. For the most divine desserts, check out the strangely named Drug Opera – a multiple part establishment carved out of a former drug store and opera house – where I had a dense and unforgettable crepe.

If you’re keen on resting your tired feet and watching the world go by, get a cup of coffee and park yourself at the Café de Vaudeville, located in the Galeries St-Hubert, an elegantly restored 19th century shopping arcade, offering not only haute couture but a series of delectable chocolateries as well.

Brussels’ prime restaurant alley can be found on the Rue des Bouchers, a brightly lit meandering cobble-stoned street barely a minute’s walk away from the Grand Place, and which intersects the Galeries St-Hubert. Different cuisines are on offer along the alley, but seafood predominate, with some of the most exciting displays to be found in the mounds of food stacked up in front of the individual restaurants.

It’s a very welcoming place, but somewhat touristy, as testified by all the touts operating there. We had dinner on Saturday along with the Canadian Couple at Le Bourgeois, where my two travelling companions proceeded to dig into about five thousand mussels. Or it could have been more. I had lost count. I settled for the lobster soup.

We spent much of Sunday in the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts (Royal Museum for Fine Arts), which I may write about separately. Thereafter, after imbibing all the great art, plus an entirely optional piece of waffle, it was back to the area around the Grand Place, where a hedonistic process of shopping ensued. We returned to London tired and laden with truffles, chocolates and assorted bottles of good Belgian beer.


Yes, this Brussels trip will be remembered for my first introduction to Mort Subite, a delightful cherry beer, and to Chimay, and as the place where I savoured Leffe again. Before leaving, I got myself a Chimay three-pack, with accompanying beer glass. It’s known as a Trappist beer, first produced by the monks in the days of yore, and certainly carries a rich taste. The three bottles are now sitting proudly in my room, waiting to be opened one day when I shall wish to savour the memories of a most enjoyable weekend.
Travel notes: I travelled to Brussels on board the Eurostar, departing from London’s Waterloo station and arriving at Brussels’ Gare du Midi. The journey takes less than three hours. Accommodation was at the nearby IBIS hotel along the Rue de’Angleterre. Both transport and lodgings were jointly booked with STA Travel, which offered a pretty decent student deal.

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